New Beauty Breakdown! – Autumn Beauty for Grazia Croatia

Apologies for the radio silence, work has been pretty crazy over the last few weeks so time at the computer has been in short supply. Because it’s one thing to be actually shooting, but there’s all the other bits of being a makeup artist that no one tells you when you’re studying how to actually BE a makeup artist. There’s the meetings with photographers, organising your portfolio, prepping your kit for different jobs (I hate carrying everything so I have different kits for different jobs – what I would take to a red carpet job is very different to what I’d take on a beauty shoot, to what I’d take on an ad job, and for fashion or beauty editorials it is literally the whole kit and caboodle! White body makeup? In it goes. Lime green handwoven lashes? Check. Day-glo orange eye makeup? You never know. Brow bleach? Chuck it in). So packing for different jobs can take awhile, not to mention if you’re involved with model selection, or putting together mood boards and looking for references for a shoot.

Plus you know, exercise and doing your washing and seeing family and friends occasionally. The actual putting makeup on people is the easy bit! So even though people think it’s all glamorous and you just turn up, put some lipstick on people and scoot home in a cab there’s a lot of extra stuff that goes into the job. Not that I don’t love nearly every minute of it! But it has meant that time is often in short supply and blogging has been on the backburner the last few weeks.

So apologies if I haven’t been posting as much, I am trying to work out how to get more time as I keep finding more makeup gems literally every week (Case in point – the Eyeko Eyleash Curler is literally the best eyelash curler I’ve tried!) I’ve been testing skincare, new foundations, and new mascaras so there’s definitely lots to tell you all. But first I thought I’d bring you a Beauty Breakdown (which we haven’t had in awhile) of a recent beauty Autumn story I had for Grazia Croatia, shot by Rossella Vanon.

Skin and Foundation

  • NARS Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturiser
  • Chanel Vitalumiere foundation
  • MAC Translucent loose powder
  • NARS Sun Wash Diffusing Bronzer – Laguna

Look 1 – Brown Eyeliner

  • Eyes
    • NARS Eye Paint in Baalbek (warm brown)
    • NARS Eye Paint in Black Valley (at lash line)
    • NARS Audacious mascara
  • Cheeks
    • Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze and Glow
  • Lips
    • NARS Bolero and Belle de Jour Velvet Matte Pencils mixed

 

Look 2 – Pink Duo eye

  • Eyes
    • Chanel Ombre Première eyeshadow in Silver Pink
    • NARS Bengali eyeshadow on outer corners
    • NARS Dark Angel Shadow stick along lashline
    • NARS Audacious mascara
    • MAC Sushi Flower eyeshadow in crease
    • MAC Fuchsia pigment on inner eye corners
  • Lips
    • Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk lipliner
    • MAC Clear Lipglass

 

Look 3 -Heather Eye and Pink Lips

  • Eyes
    • MAC Teddy eyeliner rimming the eye
    • NARS Duo eyeshadow in Habanera
    • NARS Duo eyeshadow in Marie Galante
  • Cheeks
    • She Uemura M Amber 82
  • Lips
    • NARS Manhunt lipstick as a stain

 

Look 4 – Berry Lips

  • Eyes
    • MAC Coffee eyeliner and Clear Lipglass
    • NARS Audacious mascara
  • Lips
    • NARS Damned Velvet Matte Pencil

 

Look 5 – Coffee eyes

  • Eyes
    • MAC Coffee eyeliner
    • NARS Dark Angel Eye Shadow stick
    • Charlotte Tilbury Marie Antoinette cream eyeshadow on inner eye corners
    • Chanel Candeur et Experience Eyeshadow quad in crease
    • NARS Audacious mascara
  • Cheeks
    • NARS Sunwash Diffusing Bronzer in Laguna and NARS Multiple in Lamu
    • NARS blush in Gina
  • Lips – NARS Fantasia lipliner and NARS Blonde Venus Sheer lipstick

 

Team Credits:

How to do Cat Eye Makeup Tutorial with Wendy Rowe

Cat Eye Makeup

I’m loving this new video of Wendy Rowe showing Burberry’s brilliant Cat Eyeliner pen (that also comes in brown, which we all know is pretty tricky to find in a liquid eyeliner pen). I use liquid eyeliner pens all the time at work as they just make flick eyeliner so easy, and now these are on my radar, I’ll be needing both black and brown, please!

Summer Products to Bring out your South Beach Glow

Miami South Beach

Suddenly it’s summer. London is definitely in the peak of the hot weather and it’s making me think of ice creams, and beaches, and holidays and fresh watermelon eaten in the sun.

Since my ACTUAL summer holidays are a little while away, I need to make do with cheering myself up with some new summer makeup. Which luckily is easy as I’ve had a bunch of gorgeous new things arrive recently. It’s not your typical summer fare either – oh sure there are bronzers, and fresh apricot shine lipsticks and blush the colour of fresh papaya, but there are also sparkling highlighters, candy coloured liners, shimmery obsidian dark eyeshadow and jungle green mascara for when you feel like taking the tropical vibe to – well, your lashes, actually.

Here’s my pick of the summer crop so far:

NARS Bord de Plage Highlighting and Bronzing Palette – this is heaven in a makeup compact. The new summer collection from NARS reformulates their classic bronzers, Laguna and Casino (which are ALWAYS in my kit), and the new version has no shimmer. Which I’m pretty excited by, as sometimes, like when doing male grooming, you don’t want shimmer when you bronze someone up. Contouring is also a zero shimmer proposition (I do believe we have discussed this before on MM  – contouring in general is something that needs to be handled with extreme care).

This NARS palette not only has the two new bronzers, but four delicious new powder highlighters in shades ranging from peach to gold to copper. You will literally never need to buy another highlighter again. And let’s discuss the packaging shall we? It’s tortoiseshell. Metallic tortoiseshell print. Gorgey-worgey and super chic.

Sisley’s Phytoblush Twist in number 3
The sweetest, domed stick blush in a wind up, zebra print case – it’s the colour of a ripe rockmelon and is guaranteed to make you feel like Brigitte Bardot lounging beachside in the South of France (instead of sweating on the tube in rush hour, which, let’s be real is more likely where you’ll be wearing it). I love the feel of it as it melts into the skin and gives a just touched by the sun hint of colour. Perfect to complement my (soon to be) new back from the beach tan!

Sisley’s Phytoblush Twist in number 3

Chanel Ombre Première eyeshadow range – The Chanel eyeshadow range has just been totally reformulated and it’s an extensive collection of cream and powder eyeshadows that you can layer or wear alone. I’m currently obsessed with the Silver Pink cream one in this range, and was thrilled to see a new black cream version (816 Obscur), an update on my favourite but discontinued Mirifique from my beloved Chanel’s Ombre d’Illusion range. This is what you want when you’re doing a super glam smoky eye. The powder shadows come in an incredible range with golds, shimmering purples and cobalts as well as the more traditional flattering browns.

Chanel Ombre Première eyeshadow range

Kiko Milano Eyeliners – I’m totally obsessed with Kiko Milano’s range of cheap, amazing makeup and I’ve been using their coloured eyeliners at work. A few weeks ago on a summer beauty shoot I used Kiko Smart Eyepencil in 805 Violet, and I also love their Lasting Precision Automatic Eyeliner in Turquoise 08 for just a jolt of colour on the eye with sheer skin and  nude lips. Best of all, Kiko is so reasonably priced you can grab a basket and start collecting new kit products like candy! They’re a life saver right before beauty shoots, let me tell you.

Kiko Smart Eyepencil in 805

 

Chanel Inimitable waterproof mascara in 87 – it’s green, hunter green. It’s not too bright, or scary but it’s definitely there, and it brings out every eye colour. Plus it’s waterproof so ideal for long days of swimming as well as pool party nights. For some reason it makes me think of J Lo videos c 2001 (maybe because secretly I’d like to live in a J Lo video c. 2001.)

Chanel Inimitable waterproof mascara in 87

NARS Laguna Body Tint – another all-star winner from NARS’ summer collection, this one is going straight in my kit. It has a slight amount of shimmer to it but not enough to make you feel like YOU should be in that J Lo video – it’s not that tacky over blingy shimmer look of yore. It’s also got a good tint to it, taking my pasta coloured legs to a believable shade of bronze in as long as it takes to rub it in, and it’s scented with NARS’ signature Mono de Tahiti scent. It has an SPF of 30 so not only does it give you a Haitian goddess colour, it protects you from the sun. This is definitely going with me on holidays.

NARS Laguna Body Tint

Let’s have some J Lo inspo, ‘Love Don’t Cost a Thing’ from her 2001 album, ‘On the 6’. If I can’t get to Miami, Miami will have to come to me. I’m going to self tan myself now with my NARS Laguna Body Tint whilst imagining I’m in a Miami mega mansion wearing ridiculously oversized Gucci aviators, some major hair extensions and peach coloured lip gloss. BRB.

 

Bobbi Brown Hydrating Gel Cream

Bobbi Brown Hydrating Gel Cream

Bobbi Brown you are really floating my boat at the moment! I’m totally loving Bobbi Brown skincare.

It takes me ages (as in, ahem, years), to try a different moisturiser because at work THERE CAN BE NO SURPRISES! I need to know the products that I use work reliably on everyone, anytime. And they need to play nicely together as well. I don’t want to moisturise and then add a sunscreen that pills up on the skin and goes weird, or that makes the foundation sit on top of the skin or make it look cakey and masky. And I’m certainly not going to drag a million products around either, so things that ALMOST make the cut just aren’t an option.

Thus my skin bag is now really small as it’s a tiny, perfect edit of products I love and that work amazingly well together. When another product is coming into the bag, it’s a BIG DEAL. I test it on myself (and sometimes my teenage son who as it turns out is quite partial to a bit of luxury skincare), then it goes in with my older products and I start busting it out here and there to see how it performs. It doesn’t replace my current favourite product for quite awhile until I’m definitely sure.

So if Bobbi Brown skincare has finally made it into the bag, it means it’s good y’all! I’ve loved the BB Vitamin Enriched Face Base for years and now it’s summer in London I’m rocking the BB Hydrating Gel Cream which is a water-based moisturiser, so perfect and cooling for the summer months. It plumps the skin and leaves it looking hydrated but not greasy. So even the oiliest skins love it as it plumps the surface but doesn’t create more shine. It works well with mattifiers as well like MAC Matte and YSL Blur Perfector and basically provides the perfect base for makeup. My new skincare love.

christabel-draffin-makeup-elle

Best Bronzers

Bronze Bain de Soleil Ad 1985

Bronze like a Bain de Soleil ad in 1985
 

Today is so incredibly warm and divine that only a post on my favourite bronzers seemed appropriate. If you want to feel like you’re on a yacht, in a bikini drinking white wine whilst a man with a fake French accent narrates your every move, you’ve come to the right post.

It’s that time of year when panicky unwrapping of winter white limbs ensues – legs that look like cheese sticks suddenly need to look like Victoria’s Secret Angel legs, toned, and lithe and, well, toasty brown. Faces need to look similarly sunkissed (but totally natural, bien sûr).

Enter my favourite products to give you a honey sun-kissed visage – without the sun damage.

Chanel Soleil Tan de Chanel Bronze Universel – this is never, NEVER out of my kit. It’s a cream bronzer with a very slight iridescence that adds shape to the face and when gently buffed on the cheeks and forehead (wherever the sun would hit) adds the prefect amount of radiant tan. It only comes in one colour, which weirdly (but thankfully!) looks great on almost all but the darkest skin tones. It’s perfect for livening up winter pallid skin, or topping up a burgeoning (or fading) tan.

NARS Laguna Bronzer – Probably my favourite powder bronzer of all time, there is a reason why this one is a modern classic. It’s the perfect shade of golden bronze, with a bit of shimmer. It’s not too red, and not too grey. It’s good on fair to medium skintones.

NARS Casino Bronzer – As above, but this is perfect for medium to deep skin tones

YSL Terre Saharienne in 3 – This is my absolute fave for dark skin tones as it adds warmth to the face but looks totally natural. I used this on a gorgeous Jamaican model last week (who had incredible deep black skin) and this added a touch of warmth without looking ashy.

Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder – I love this range of pressed powders (that come in a range of shades) for boys and kids as it looks totally natural and has no shimmer. It’s also good for the red carpet for a perfectly subtle contour. (note – not Kontour)

So if you want the sunkiss without the sun damage, it’s all to be found at the makeup counter. You can bask without the bake factor! Yacht and voice over man come separately.